Cairns:
"where the rainforest meets the reef"
September-October, 2007
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© David Powell,
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Day 1:
Arrival

Day 2:
Kuranda

Day 3:
Paronella

Day 4:
Pt Douglas

Day 5:
Daintree

Day 6:
Kuranda

Day 7:
Cairns

Day 8:
Reef Trip

Day 9:
Departure


Day 2
The first full day in Cairns .. well in the Cairns area. We did actually drive thru' Cairns, if that counts? Started off the day with a walk down to the beach .. not far .. the resort has its own beach access. Then spent 1/2 hour or so walking up and down the beach. Looked much like any other sand beach I guess .. there's only so much you can do with lots of sand on the shore after all. Still, with the palm trees and other tropical plants it did look distinctly tropical .. no surprise, since that's what it is. I did notice one unusual feature ... or more to the point, my feet did. Beaches elsewhere that I've been to have had fine sand, this one was made of rather coarse sand. Walking on it with bare feet was not all that pleasant experience after a while .. like walking on "pebblecrete" or something like that. Took a few hours for the feeling in the soles of the feet to return to normal. Nice view and it was pleasant to walk along just in the water. Carefully tho' since this area is notorious for "stingers" - stingers are a particularly nasty local jellyfish. Didn't see anything suspicious .. well apart from a few people ... and there was a dog that'd been swimming .. uneventfully.

Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Courtyard, Sea Temple Resort,
Palm Cove

Image © David Powell, 2007
Courtyard, Sea Temple Resort,
Palm Cove

Image © David Powell, 2007
Courtyard, Sea Temple Resort,
Palm Cove

Image © David Powell, 2007

Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Palm Cove Beach from Sea Temple, north
Image © David Powell, 2007
Palm Cove Beach from Sea Temple, north
Image © David Powell, 2007
Palm Cove Beach from Sea Temple, south
Image © David Powell, 2007

Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Palm Cove
Palm Cove Beach from Sea Temple, south
Image © David Powell, 2007
Mangroves, Palm Cove, near Sea Temple
Image © David Powell, 2007
Mangroves, Palm Cove, near Sea Temple
Image © David Powell, 2007

Red Lynch's Cottage
Red Lynch's Cottage, Freshwater
Image © David Powell, 2007

Freshwater Scenic Railway
Barron River & Redlynch,
from train at Red Bluff

Image © David Powell, 2007

Freshwater Railway Station
Freshwater Heritage Railway Station
Image © David Powell, 2007

Freshwater Scenic Railway
Train going over bridge,
Stoney Creek Falls

Image © David Powell, 2007

Back to the apartment, brekkie and rang to see if we could book today's activities ... we could and we did. Today's expedition was the Scenic Railway & Skyrail trip to Kuranda and back. Kuranda is an old gold mining town that's been resurrected as a tourist trap. But more on the town later. The railway and Skyrail are strictly for the tourists, of course. The railway is private, tho' I did notice a freight train on the line at one point. Old early 20th century carriages .. with modern diesel engines. Well better than a steam engine with all the smoke and ashes. The train ride was slow but very spectacular, taking an hour and half to get from the train station in the little village of Freshwater up the mountains to Kuranda, at an altitude of around 329 metres. Most of the route passed thru' the Barron Gorge National Park. While waiting for the train I had a look at a little museum and an old wooden cabin. As for the train trip ... lots of gorges, escarpments, tunnels, a few waterfalls and pretty spectacular scenery ... some views all the way to the coast. Saw a hydroelectric plant and lots of rainforest. The rail line follows the mountain ridge in a very winding and back tracking route. Once reaching the foot of the mountains, the first part of the trip travels 34 kilometres thru' lots of tunnels (15 of them) .. all hand-hewn with tools (no dynamite for some reason), 98 curves and over 40 bridges as it climbs 300 metres thru' the tropical rainforest for the most part along the side of the Barron Gorge. The rail line from Freshwater to Kuranda took 5 years to build and was opened in 1891. Half-way up the train stops so you can catch a look at the beautiful Stony Creek Falls. Not the power and majesty of the Barron Falls, these falls much more delicate, but just as impressive in their own way. Near the end the train stopped and we all poured out to have a look at the Barron Falls. Since this is right at the end of the dry season (6 months of virtually no rain), the river was pretty sparse and the waterfall a tiny fraction of its usual self .. normally it's a huge torrent pouring over the end of the embankment and filling the gorge below. But today it was a very sedate and rather small waterfall ... relative, of course. It was still quite sizable. Great views of the gorge and there were a couple of neat looking lakes at the base of the falls as well as some unusual looking water-worn rock. Back on the train for the short trip to Kuranda at the end of the line. The station master at Kuranda station certainly likes his plants ... thousands of pot plants scattered around the platform, along with garden beds and small trees. A virtual rainforest in itself. More a botanic garden than a train station!

Stony Creek Falls
Scenic Railway
Barron Falls
Scenic Railway
Stony Creek Falls from Kuranda Scenic Train
Image © David Powell, 2007
Freshwater Scenic Railway,
going around bend at Red Bluff

Image © David Powell, 2007
Barron Falls, Kuranda
Scenic Train Railway

Image © David Powell, 2007
Barron Falls (& Troll's Head),
Kuranda Scenic Train Railway

Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda
Kuranda
Kuranda
Kuranda Railway Station
Image © David Powell, 2007
Cynthia, Barron River Jetty, Kuranda
Image © David Powell, 2007
Curtain Fig Tree, Coondoo St, Kuranda
Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda Butterfly Sanctuary
Birdwing Butterfly,
Butterfly Sanctuary, Kuranda

Image © David Powell, 2007
Kuranda Butterfly Sanctuary
Birdwing Butterflies,
Butterfly Sanctuary, Kuranda

Image © David Powell, 2007
Kuranda ... the village is really one great big market. Walked down to a little park next to the Barron River where you can go on river cruises (e just had a look around). Then back to the main street for some serious shopping! The town is full of hundreds of shops selling almost anything you could imagine. From the usual tacky souvenirs (stuffed koalas made in China & the like), even tackier tee shirts (I wont repeat some of the messages), cafes, restaurants, jewellery stores, art galleries, clothing stores, knick knack stores and much much more. We had lunch in a German cafe staffed entirely by German's .. backpackers most likely. Lots of lovely tropical plants and trees. Quite colourful. After lunch we visited the Butterfly Sanctuary. It's the largest in the country and has over a dozen different species, which're all bred on-site. Very colourful. We did the guided tour. Opened in 1987, the sanctuary encloses some 3666 cubic metres in the aviary and is home to over 1500 tropical butterflies, all local to the area, including the electric blue Ulysses butterfly and the largest butterfly in Australia, the Cairns or Australian Birdwing. When it was opened, it was the largest butterfly aviary in the world. Today it still holds the record as the largest in the southern hemisphere. Inside there's 3 acres cultivated with 'butterfly food' plants and a further 4 acres of recreated rainforest.
Kuranda Butterfly Sanctuary
Kuranda Butterfly Sanctuary
Kuranda Butterfly Sanctuary
Butterfly on Cynthia's hand
Image © David Powell, 2007
Cruiser Butterfly, Butterfly Sanctuary
Image © David Powell, 2007
Butterfly having lunch, Butterfly Sanctuary
Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda Butterfly Sanctuary
Kuranda Butterfly Sanctuary
Kuranda Butterfly Sanctuary
Butterfly, Butterfly Sanctuary, Kuranda
Image © David Powell, 2007
Birdwing Butterfly, Butterfly Sanctuary
Image © David Powell, 2007
Ulysses Butterfly, Butterfly Sanctuary
Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda Skyrail - Barron Falls
Barron Falls, Barron Falls
Skyrail Station

Image © David Powell, 2007
Kuranda Skyrail
Crossing Barron River, Kuranda Skyrail
Image © David Powell, 2007
Then to the Skyrail terminal for the cablecar trip back down to the coast. The Skyrail Rainforest Cableway travels over the rainforest canopy a distance of 7.5km, straight over the top of Red Peak, making it the world's longest gondola cableway. Sometimes barely a metre above the canopy, other times dozens of metres. A nice view and a bit of a thrill especially when passing over valleys and the wind rocked the car .. but personally I thought the rail trip was more interesting. After a while one piece of rainforest canopy looks much the same as another. The last leg, from Red Peak down to the end terminal, gave some pretty impressive views of the coast, from Cairns to Port Douglas, and out over the Coral Sea. There're two stations, along the way, where you can get off and stretch your legs, walk thru' the rainforest and admire the view at the scenic lookouts. The first is the Barron Falls station. There's a small interpretative centre there along with several lookouts over the falls. The second is the Red Peak station .. there you can visit the Rainforest Interpretation Centre.

Kuranda Skyrail
Kuranda Skyrail
Kuranda Skyrail
Over Barron Gorge National Park on Skyrail
Image © David Powell, 2007
Approaching cablecars, Barron Falls Station
Image © David Powell, 2007
Northern Beaches from Kuranda Skyrail
Image © David Powell, 2007

Kuranda Skyrail
Kuranda Skyrail
Kuranda Skyrail
Northern Beaches from Kuranda Skyrail
Image © David Powell, 2007
Cairns from Kuranda Skyrail
Image © David Powell, 2007
Approaching end of Skyrail line
Image © David Powell, 2007

Took the scenic route back to the resort via Cairns. A bit of a rest and got some takeaway at a local burger joint before having a quiet evening. Weather's been hazy much of the day, which really killed the long distance visibility. :(  Temps and humidity much the same as yesterday. And as with yesterday, after the sun set a strong breeze blew up coming off the Coral Sea and blowing into Palm Cove .. and prolly elsewhere in the region. Died down after an hour or so.



Some web sites of relevance (valid as of November 2007)General Tourism Tropical North Queensland: http://www.tropicalaustralia.com.au
 Wet Tropics World Heritage Area: http://www.wettropics.gov.au

Kuranda:
 Atherton Tablelands Kuranda: http://www.tablelands.org/kuranda.html
 Australian Butterfly Sanctuary: http://www.australianbutterflies.com
 Birdworld Kuranda: http://www.birdworldkuranda.com
 Kuranda - Village in the Rainforest: http://www.kuranda.org/
 Kuranda Scenic Railway: http://www.ksr.com.au
 Kuranda Skyrail Foundation: http://wwwskyrailfoundation.org
 Kuranda Skyrail: http://www.skyrail.com.au
 Rainforest View Restaurant, Kuranda: http://www.rainforestview.com.au/

Palm Cove
 Nu Nu Restaurant: http://www.nunu.com.au
 Palm Cove Travel Guide: http://www.palmcoveaustralia.com/index.html
 Palm Cove Village: http://www.palmcove.net/about.htm
 Sea Temple Resort: http://seatemple.com.au/
 The Outback Opal Mine: http://outbackopalmine.com.au